Saturday, March 27, 2010

Day 8: Sumida Park

Sumida park is, as you can imagine, located on the bank of the Sumida river just a few minute's walk from the sensouji in Asakusa. Originally a private garden for the shogun, it was opened as a public park in 1931. It's also one of the prime spots for 花見 (hanami or "flower viewing") in late March and early April as the park contains nearly 1,000 sakura planted along the bank forming a tunnel of blossoms.

I caught the park in early March, so only a few of the trees were in bloom, but they still drew their share of enthusiastic photographers, viewers, joggers and bicyclists.

Other sights along the Sumida park include the Asahi headquarters across the river. You might be familiar with their "super dry" beer, but like most beverage companies in Japan, they actually produce a wide variety of soft drinks, as well.

Officially known as the "Asahi Beer Hall". The building on the left was styled to represent a glass of beer with its foamy head at the top. And the Asahi flame is supposed to represent the 'burning heart of Asahi beer' but the locals refer to it as "the golden turd".



Monday, March 22, 2010

Day 7: Asakusa & Akihabara

Ah, Asakusa's sensō-ji - Tōkyō's oldest Buddhist temple, complete with an impressive five-story pagoda. Being the last stop on the Metro's Ginza line, it's hard to miss. This was the first site I visited when I came to Japan, so it holds a special place in my heart.

On my previous visit to the
sensō-ji, the actual temple was completely covered up and under renovation. So, 6 months later, I was excited to return to see it in all its glory... too bad it was still under construction!


Oh, well. Even if you find yourself in Japan tomorrow, the sensō-ji is still well worth a visit. The "thunder gate" with its ceremonious giant lanterns are quite a site along with the all the little shops that line Nakamise-dori. During the oppressively hot summers, Nakamise-dori is mercifully covered providing much-needed shade. However, in the early spring, it's open-air and adorned with cherry blossom decorations.

Like most temples and shrines, you'll find a おみくじ ("omikuji"), which literally means "sacred lottery". For a donation of a mere 100 yen you can participate in the fun with all the high school kids whom you'll see giggling and laughing at the results of their fortunes. Here's how it works:

Pop your 100 yen into the coin slot and grab that metallic cylinder. Tilt and shake it until a numbered stick falls out of the the hole and match up that number to the corresponding drawer and therein lies your fortune.

The numbers will more than likely be in Japanese, so it helps you find your fortune quicker if you can read them, but if you're not familiar with the kanji, you'll just have to spend an extra minute or two matching up the symbols.

Your fortune will be headed with a prediction of your overall luck in general as follows:

  • Great blessing (dai-kichi, 大吉)
  • Middle blessing (chū-kichi, 中吉)
  • Small blessing (shō-kichi, 小吉)
  • Blessing (kichi, 吉)
  • Half-blessing (han-kichi, 半吉)
  • Near-blessing (sue-kichi, 末吉)
  • Near-small-blessing (sue-shō-kichi, 末小吉)
  • Curse (kyō, 凶)
  • Small curse (shō-kyō, 小凶)
  • Half-curse (han-kyō, 半凶)
  • Near-curse (sue-kyō, 末凶)
  • Great curse (dai-kyō, 大凶)
Then you'll get a more specific prognostication. Usually something along the lines of:
  • 願事 (negaigoto) – one's wish or desire
  • 待人 (machibito) – a person being waited for
  • 失せ物 (usemono) – lost article(s)
  • 旅立ち (tabitachi) – travel
  • 商い (akinai) – business dealings
  • 學問 (gakumon) – studies or learning
  • 相場 (souba) – market speculation
  • 爭事 (arasoigoto) – disputes
  • 戀愛 (renai) – romantic relationships
  • 転居 (tenkyo) – moving or changing residence
  • 出產 (shussan) – childbirth or pregnancy
  • 病気 (byōki) – illness
  • 縁談 (endan) – marriage proposal or engagement
If your fortune is good, keep it with you. Otherwise, fold it up lengthwise and tie it to the wrack with metal wires nearby so you can leave your misfortune there.


Here's what got!


There's an English translation on the back, but mine says: "The Best Fortune #99 The sun is shining so brightly that you will get the blessing of the heaven. The moon is shining clearly again after a cloud passes. You may have rare treasure. Gaining fame, you meet all your wishes. Your wish will be realized. The sick person will get well. The lost article will be found. The person you are waiting for will come. It is a good to make a trip. Marriage and employment are both good."

Needless to say, I tucked this into my purse!

After taking a rest in the afternoon at my hotel and watching a grand sumo tournament, it was getting dark and therefore time to head out to Akihabara - the electric town! It's fun during the day, but comes alive at night.

If you're not into anime, or don't plan patronizing one of the many maid cafes there, it's still worth a visit and here's why: ドンキ ("donki") also known as Don Quijote, the greatest store ever. While there are many locations throughout Japan, Akihabara's is the most epic. The first floor is a pachinko parlor and the next 5 or so floors is packed to the rafters with, well... EVERYTHING. There is no order to this store. Nail polish is next to light bulbs which are next to clocks which are next to hair dyes which are next to vacuums which are next too... well, you get the idea. Unless you're a frequent shopper, you'll just have to brave each aisle not knowing what you'll find next!


I'd like to go on record saying that this is the best store I've ever been in. If you're claustrophobic, stay away, but if it's 3:30 in the morning and you need a Michael Jackson costume, Don Quijote is your best friend.

Friday, March 19, 2010

Day 6: Harajuku & Ochanomizu

Harajuku: Part 2. Again, my arms were laden with shopping bags, but I managed to snap a few pictures. For being a Monday, Takeshita-dori was packed!

I got there a little before noon and right at the entrance of Takeshita-dori there's a 24-hour McDonalds. I've been seeing posters all over Tokyo for something called the "California Burger" at "マック" (Makku), what they call McDonalds for short. I've tried KFC and T.G.i.Fridays in Japan, but not McDonalds.

What we call "value meals", they call "sets" or "セット" (setto). I got to admit that I was pretty disappointed by the burger. It had a beef patty, lettuce, tomato, white cheese, a tangy BBQ sauce on a wholewheat bun. For all that, it was pretty bland. Apparently, there's also a Texas burger and according to a poster inside the restaurant, it's "coming back soon!!". The fries were on par with what we have here, though.

Though the food wasn't that great, the people watching made up for it. I've never seen so many giggling and chatty teenage Japanese girls in one spot. And here and there in this crowded dining space were middle aged business men in their pinstriped suits totally not blending in.

For all of Harajuku's uniqueness, there's also some familiar stores to be found like Claire's. I couldn't believe it. There it was, jammed in with all the other shops. That and the GAP I could do without, but I suppose to the locals these are charming snippets of American fashion.


I checked out LaForet and it turned out to be pretty pricey and upscale for being in Harajuku. I didn't spend a lot of time inside as the price tags were not very welcoming.

Having bought all I could carry, I went back to rest my sore feet at the hotel for a few. It was getting late, so I decided to head over to the origami kaikan in Ochanomizu before it closed.



The Ochanomizu JR Station is right on the Kanda river. The origami kaikan is a short walk from the station by cutting through the Tokyo Medical and Dental University's campus.



I simply adore this place. The staff here are so friendly and if you have ever done origami, they are so pleased to hear that. Every month, they feature a project and have it on display in the 1st floor gallery and the projects from the previous month are on the 2nd floor gallery. This month was samurai helmets.

I told the lady that I enjoy origami as a hobby and told her I like to make kusudama. She smiled from ear to ear and told me to check out the 2nd floor. So I headed up to find that kusudama were the previous month's feature!


The exhibits, staff and merchandise here never disappoint me. The 3rd floor has a very impressive shop. They must have miles of paper. There's 2 rooms full of handmade washi, kits they they've made up for different projects, glue, display boards, etc.


As I was browsing, a dozen or so older ladies came down from the 5th floor classroom after just taking some lessons. They were so lively and fun to watch - kind of like the loquacious girls in Makku earlier.

The 4th floor is a workshop where you are free to check out and watch the artisans make paper.

This gentlemen was taking the black hanging pieces of washi made earlier and brushing a design on them and then hanging them to dry on the other side of the workshop. So, even if origami really isn't your thing, you can go check out this interesting process for free!

Next post: my last full day in Japan!

Monday, March 15, 2010

Day 5: Kamakura


Kamakura is the perfect day trip for Tokyoites and tourists alike. It has many shrines and a 大仏 (daibutsu or giant Buddha) statue - the second largest made of bronze in Japan, in fact.

Once you arrive in Kamakura, you make a short walk to
Hachimangu shrine either via Komachi-dori shopping street, or along the Dankazura. I recommend Komachi-dori because it's packed with little shops, of which many sell delicious street foods perfect for being on the go. It's easy to spot which is most popular. Just look for the shops with dozens of high school kids lined up in front. You can always walk the Dankazura on the way back.

If Komachi-dori wasn't enough, the Dankazura has it's own shops and food vendors selling everything from cotton candy to masks for children.


During my visit to Hachimangu, I was fortunate enough to witness a traditional/formal Shinto wedding. Here is the happy couple descending the stairs after the ceremony with a miko (priestess).


The shrine itself is atop a hill that's easy to get to via winding stairs where you're rewarded with a wonderful view of the Dankazura and torii. It was a little hazy that day, so my picture didn't turn out so well.

After the shrine, it's a short train ride (2 stops) via the Enoden line to Hase. The Enoden line uses rickety street car like trains with wooden floors. I feel sorry for the locals just trying to get home having to deal with the packed cars.

Once you arrive to Hase, it's a short walk to Hasedra (Buddhist temple) and to the Daibutsu. I didn't have much time, so I skipped Hasedra and headed straight for the Daibutsu which is well worth the 200 yen to get in
.

There's pretty much nothing else to see here. The site is pretty small for housing something so gigantic. Basically, you pay your admission, walk through the gate and BAM: a huge Buddha. I wasn't prepared for how massive it actually is. I stopped in my tracks and let out an audible "whoa!".

The sun was setting at this point, so I decided to go check out Shichirigahama beach, which is a couple more stops down from Hase. The station itself is so quaint with its one small platform and a person taking your ticket instead of a machine. The beach is all of 2 blocks away from the station. This is where all the surfers hang out and motorcyclists like to cruise up and down the coastal highway.


The sidewalk is very narrow and is well used by joggers and cyclists, so it's best to find a beach access stairway and head there.

After wandering WAY too far from Shichirigahama, I wound up in Fujisawa and took the Tokaido line back to Tokyo station. JR is your friend. :) It's like the old saying "all roads lead to Rome".


Sunday, March 14, 2010

Day 4: Nagoya

Nagoya is of course famous for it's beautiful castle, but I was there more for two other reasons: 1.) the Usagi to Cafe and 2.) 8ball Tattoo Studio.

By shinkansen (bullet train), Nagoya is only 2 hours west of Tokyo, though it's going to cost you about 18,000円 (around $200) for a round trip. Liken the shinkansen to airlines, only more convenient. Futuristic and efficient, they are my favorite part of visiting Japan. If you plan on seeing more than Tokyo and one other city, I recommended getting the JR Rail Pass. It might seem a little pricey up front, but once you start doing the math on how much it costs for each trip plus all the inner city trains you'll be using operated by JR, you quickly realize just how much of a bargain it is. On my last visit, I got my money's worth in 2 days.

My main reason for my visit to Nagoya was to see my friend, Horitake-san, who has a tattoo studio there called 8ball Tattoo Studio only a few minutes by taxi from Nagoya station. But he works tattoo artist's schedule so I decided to get lunch first.

After getting links to a video from several of my friends about Usagi to Cafe, I just had to go. I love rabbits and have two. But most people in Japan cannot have pets because their landlords are jerks, so it's not uncommon to see cat cafes where patrons can have coffee and relieve stress by watching, petting or playing with the cats at the cafe. This one is along the same lines, but with rabbits.




The girls there don't speak English, but don't let that scare you away. You can use google translate to figure out their pricing before you go. Watching the other patrons is rather amusing. They act as though they've never seen a real life rabbit up close and marvel at every little cute thing they do. There was a couple on a date, a mother with her daughter and there was even a middle aged man there just taking pictures of them hopping around with a very expensive camera. Obviously, they all had different reasons for visiting, just as I did.

One of the girls who works there, Yamada-san, was very nice and wanted to know all about my rabbits; their names, ages, what they look like, their sex, etc. They had one that was the same kind as one of the rabbits I own and looked alike, only white with brown spots instead of black. His name is パンプ (Pump) and the website says he has the nicest coat, which I expected having a satin rabbit myself.


After running up quite a large tab at the cafe, I headed off to the castle which was only a few minutes by taxi. It was overcast and rainy that day, but that kept the crowd to a minimum for being a Saturday. To my surprise, they have complimentary English speaking guides. Because of the weather, I was one of the few foreigners there and got a tour guide all to myself. So, I was lucky enough to get my personal tour of the castle and its grounds. I've been to Iwakuni castle (near Hiroshima), but Nagoya castle much, much larger and includes an impressive dry moat, guard towers, and a garden.

From the castle, it was off to visit my friend being late in the afternoon on a Saturday. I met Horitake-san while he was in Tampa for a tattoo convention. I'm not an enthusiast, but I was in the market for finding an artist to do what I wanted and this convention an array of shops in the Tampa Bay area. I had no idea 8ball Studio was there and was amazed by their portfolio. After chatting with Horitake-san (in Japanese) and telling him what I wanted, he squeezed me into their fully booked schedule and not only drew up the design but did a wonderful job on the tattoo as well - all the while turning away everyone wanting to get work done that weekend.

I was so overwhelmed by this gesture, that I made him a thank gift it mailed it to his shop a few weeks later and then I got a reply email saying that he got it and loved it. So we started emailing back and forth. When I was in Japan in September, I couldn't make it to Nagoya, so he and his wife came to meet me in Kyoto and took me out to dinner and then around the sights the next day. After their generosity, I made up some more gifts and made a special trip out to see them this time.

I dropped in to the studio to his surprise. Again, I got a tattoo and had a pleasant but short visit which makes for a very special souvenir. By this time, it was late and I didn't want to miss the last shinkansen.

The moral of the story is when you come to Japan, or if you've been before, I think you'll find that the people here are very friendly and are willing to exchange email addresses if you chat them up a little and will even give you a little token of gratitude if you've made an impression on them. Sometimes these will blossom into friendships.

Day 3: Harajuku



What can I say about Harajuku? It exceeded expectations - so much more in fact that I plan on returning tomorrow since I didn't get to hit all the shops I wanted to. (But in all fairness, I did spend that entire morning in the Tokyu Hands massive Shibuya store. And I had to leave early in the afternoon to meet up with some friends in Shinagawa.)

Since my hands were full of merchandise, I couldn't snap many pictures, but I will post what I have. I'll be taking another shot at it tomorrow, though.

As you can see, Takeshita-dori is packed even on a weekday. I can't even what it's like on the weekends.

I lost all sense of time just hopping from shop to shop. It's seemingly endless and the variety is unparalleled! There were a couple lolita sightings but none of the craziness that normally goes on Sundays. I did see a GAP there, which is hilarious. When I think of the GAP, I think "cookie cutter clothing", so it was the last store I expected to see where normally this goes on.


The plan for tomorrow's attack is LaForet (which is like Harajuku's version of 109) and the rest of Takeshita-dori.



Thursday, March 11, 2010

Day 2: Shibuya


True to his form, there's the ever-faithful Hachikō waiting for my return to Shibuya. For those of you not familiar with this statue's story: after his owner's death, Hachikō returned to wait at the Shibuya train station every afternoon for 10 years and has since become a beloved symbol of loyalty and is a popular spot to meet up with friends.

Personally, this is my favorite district of Tōkyō. It's got something for everybody. Chocked full of department stores, shops, arcades and cafes, it's easy to spend the entire day here wandering around all of Shibuya's little side streets. If you're looking for touristy items, look else where. This is where Tōkyō's 20-somethings come to shop for the latest in everything from clothing to music to home goods.

I forgot how intense it is to commute in this city and all the little unspoken rules when you're out and about. For instance, some train stations are absolutely labyrinth-like and not being that familiar with the layouts of each station, I've got to do a little research before I go. There's no stopping and reading signs. If you're not sure where you're going, just keep walking - briskly and follow the signs. When riding escalators, keep to the left so that those who are in a hurry can sprint to the top without being obstructed. As a tourist, I don't care if I miss a train and have to wait 5 minutes, but to the locals, this is unacceptable so lead, follow or get out of the way!

Below is a video of Shibuya's scramble crossing at rush hour. I just happened to catch a crossing where two girls got stranded in the middle of the intersection and were nearly ran over. This is the first time I've ever seen anyone jaywalk in this country and now I know why no else does it - EVER.




So, let that be a lesson to you!

I've already touched upon Shibuya in a previous post so it's pretty obvious how much I love this district. I made sure it was the first place I went. Last time, I had a baseball game to go to, so I couldn't stick around. This time I stuck around until twilight to see Shibuya come to life. Below is picture of center gai street at night.

Tomorrow? HARAJUKU!

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Day 1: Dream Land


And I mean "dream land" in two ways: Tokyo and actual sleep. Having slept only 5 hours in the past 2 days, my first destination here in Tokyo is this very bed in my cozy little hotel room.

My strategy for combating the formidable foe that is jet-lag is sleep deprivation. The idea is that by the time I check into my hotel room around 8:00 PM and unpack, wash up, check my email, etc., it's bedtime and I am more than ready to sleep through the night.

So far, this method has been pretty effective though it has its drawbacks. For instance, on the Skyliner train from Narita airport to Funabashi, I, for a nanosecond, thought there was a giant man walking in pace with the train. It turned out the be the reflection of the Keio employee walking through the car I was in.

Let's do the math: window(man + night + moving train)/exhaustion = believing in giants before thinking it's a reflection

*yawn*The Sandman beckons and I cannot resist his temptation any longer. Shibuya tomorrow!



Saturday, March 6, 2010

日本語!Japanese language!

So you want to go to Japan, but you don't speak any Japanese or all the Japanese you know you learned from watching anime with subtitles. That's OK!. From what I read and heard before my first trip there was that if you're sticking to the big cities, most people speak English. I found that really isn't the case, but don't panic. It's been my experience that Japanese people are super nice to tourists and if you manage to string an entire sentence together, they'll be even nicer to you. That being said, you don't have to run out and sign up for lessons or spend a small fortune on Rosetta Stone - but it certainly doesn't hurt. (My advice if you decide to get Rosetta Stone: first learn katakana and hiragana thoroughly - it assumes you can read it already and that will save you a lot of frustration.)

I mentioned hiragana and katakana but what is it? Well, the Japanese have 4 systems of writing: hiragana, which is a syllabary that consists of 48 syllables used to spell out Japanese words; katakana is a syllabary similar to hiragana, but used for spelling out non-Japanese words - like English words they think are cool, or your name; kanji are symbols representing one Japanese word, but could be spelled out in hiragana if you don't know it; and then there's romanji - which is using the Roman alphabet to spell out Japanese words.

Out of the 4, the most useful for survival in Japan is katakana. My reasoning is if you can read it, you'll end up sounding out a word you already know. No translation is needed. For example: "タクシー" (takushi-) or "taxi". Voila. Done. The Japanese word for "taxi" is essentially "taxi". Warning: not all words written in katakana spell an English word! They also borrow words from French, German and other languages sometimes.

This website indispensable when learning hiragana and katakana.

Why not romanji? In the words of my Japanese instructor: "romanji is ass". And I agree. The only times I saw it over there was to spell out business names on their signs or at train stations. When you arrive, the platform sign will read "広島 / ひろしま / Hiroshima". So, it's not very useful at all.

What about kanji? It can be helpful, too, because you don't have to know how to pronounce it in Japanese - you can just associate the English word to it. But, there are literally thousands of them! Where do you start? The Japanese have tables of what should be learned by 1st grade, 2nd grade, etc, but that doesn't necessarily apply to you, the traveler.

Below is my list of handy kanji to know if you ever find yourself in Japan!

More than likely, you'll be utilizing the many subway and train stations that make travel within the cities and throughout the country so convenient and easy. Some of the stations are like cities unto themselves containing stores, restaurants, newsstands and require you take a certain exit to get to your street level destination. e.g. the "North Exit". Here are some kanji to help you get around the sometimes massive train stations! I've provided the Japanese pronunciation spelled out in both kana and romanji along with its English meaning.
  • 東 / ひがし / higashi /east
  • 西 / にし / nishi / west
  • 南 / みなみ / minami / south
  • 北 / きた / kita / north
  • 入口 / いりぐち / iriguchi / entrance
  • 出口 / でぐち / deguchi / exit
  • 駅 / えき / eki / station
  • 電車 / でんしゃ / densha / train
  • 地下鉄 / ちかてつ / chikatetsu / subway
  • 新幹線 / しんかんせん / shinkansen / bullet train
Ok, now that you've found your way out of the train station, let's help you find what you're looking for or recognize some establishments by way of their kanji.
  • 銀行 / ぎんこう / ginkou / bank
  • 病院 / びょういん / byouin / hospital
  • 交番 / こうぼん / kouban / police box
  • 薬屋 / くすりや / kusuriya / drug store
  • 郵便局 / ゆうびんきょく / yuubinkyoku / post office
  • ホテル / hoteru / hotel
  • レストラン / resutoran / restaurant
  • 寿司屋 / すしや / sushiya / sushi restaurant
  • 神社 / じんじゃ / jinja / Shinto shrine
  • 寺 / てら / tera / Buddhist temple
That wasn't so bad. What about numbers? Well, it turns out that the Japanese have adopted, for the most part, the arabic numerals that we use, so no worries there. You usually only see number kanji if it's part of a name like "三菱" (Mitsubishi) but by and large you'll see it spelled out in romanji since it's a business name.

On Monday, I will be more than likely stuck in my hotel room in Newark in the afternoon with some time to kill and will use that to post some useful words or phrases - nothing too heavy. Like I said, they are so impressed that you're even trying just a little and will never fault you or make fun of you if you mess up. I find it rather comforting.

Hopefully, these will be of use to you and relieve some anxiety about going to a foreign country where you don't speak or read the language. I'll be glad to answer any questions you have if you're looking for something more specific or want some clarification on the above.

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

御茶ノ水! Ochanomizu!

Here's a little hand towel I happened to find at Kanda Shrine in Ochanomizu as my friend and I were walking to Akihabara on our last day in Japan. I thought it was rather serendipitous and will be basing the coming boutique's logo off of it.We had no idea this little gem of a shrine was literally 2 blocks from our hotel. My friend and I had the morning and afternoon to kill before our flight and we decided to take a little stroll in the neighborhood we had called home for a few days. Ochanomizu is quiet and pretty little area on the Kanda river with the main street, Hongo Dori, lined with gingko biloba trees with their delicate split leaves.


We had grown very accustomed to cutting through the campus of the Tōkyō Medical and Dental University and crossing the Kanda river to get to the train station on our way to and from some other part of of the city. This is also where my beloved Origami Kaikan is located! I'll definitely be returning there to get some more projects and much more of their beautiful washi paper.


Ochanomizu also has a little vibrant core complete with the trainstation on one corner, a pachinko parlor across the street and a karaoke bar on the corner facing that one.

In the grand scheme of visiting Tōkyō, there's not much to do or see in Ochanomizu, but it's a very convenient and pleasant place to stay during your visit.