焼酎！Shōchū!

Welcome to Part 2 of my Japanese alcohol series!

This week, I'm focusing on Shōchū which is another alcoholic beverage from Japan, but is mostly made from barley or sweet potatoes. Unlike saké, shōchū has a well-known reputation for having actual health benefits and so it's becoming more and more popular amongst health-conscience or dieting drinkers looking for low calorie alternatives to the normally sugary or carb-heavy drinks.

Alcohol with health benefits is nothing new. The idea of having a glass of wine with dinner has been around for ever. But shōchū has been proven to reduce blood clots and it's low in calories. It also gets broken down easily in the body, so if you're someone who is prone to hangovers then shōchū might be a good choice for you.

I won't bore you with the history of Japan's alcohol taxation laws of the past century and how it's changed the way shōchū is classified. (You're welcome.) Currently, shōchū is divided into three main categories: 本格焼酎 (honkaku shōchū) "authentic", singly-distilled and 焼酎甲類 (shōchū kōrui), multiply-distilled and moromitori shōchū, made with rice or barley, singly-distilled and uses kōji mold spores.

Since honkaku shōchū is singly-distilled, it retains much of the aroma and taste of its main ingredient whether it's sweet potato, barley or sometimes rice and has no more than 45% alcohol by volume.

Moromitori shōchū comes in three main varieties based on the color of the kōji used.

• White: this is the most common variety and it has a sweet and taste since the saccharization is rapid due to the white kōji enzymes.
• Black: because the black spores spread so quickly, it usually left workers and facilities coated in black, so making this type fell out of favor. However, a new way to cultivate it has made this type of shōchū popular again and usually made using thai rice or soba (buckwheat).
• Yellow: this is the type of kōji used in making saké, and is very difficult to make since it's so vulnerable to warm temperatures. The result is a very strong potato based shōchū.

Shōchū kōrui, being multiply-distilled, usually is used as the base for cocktails and liqueurs like チューハ (chūhai) and 梅酒 (umeshu) - we know it as plum wine. Chūhai is short for "shōchū highball" and can be found in many fruity flavors like orange, grapefruit, peach and lychee and is served in a tall glass. Sold in a can, Chu-hi, can be found in vending machines and convenience stores around Japan. Kirin makes quite a few flavors of it. But with fruity syrup added, you're looking at a lot more calories than other alcoholic beverages.

Umeshu and how to make it at home will get a blog entry all of it's own...

乾杯! (Kampai!)

お酒! Saké!

Many of you have heard of the traditional rice-based alcohol called saké, or "o-saké" to be polite, but are not very familiar with it. Like me, you might treat yourself when you're out for sushi and you randomly choose from the menu which one you'd like. It's all the same, right? It's clear, it's strong and served piping hot in a little bottle. Most don't go beyond more than price and what the bottle design when ordering or buying saké from a liquor store.

Well, there's actually a lot more to saké. Like beer or wines, there are many classifications varying in quality, finish and taste. I am by no means an expert, but here's some clarification on varieties and basic terms to help you find a saké that's right for you.

What's the difference between 普通酒 (futsū-shu) ordinary table sake and premium saké? Do I serve it hot or cold?

First, know that the one of the biggest factors that determine the grade and way a particular saké tastes is the amount of rice that is milled or "polished" off during the brewing process. This is referred to as 精米歩合 (seimaibuai). The lower the number, the smaller the grain and the more refined the taste. The rice used in making ordinary table saké has a seimaibuai of less than 70%, meaning less than 30% of the original grain has been polished away.

特定名称主 (tokutei meishoushu) “special designation saké” or "premium" saké must have a seimaibuai of 70% or greater. There are six main classifications of premium saké and they are as follows:

1. 純米 (junmai) - this literally means "pure rice". Generally, there is no extra alcohol added during the brewing process and retains its firm rice flavor.
2. 本所ぞ (Honjōzō) - this is similar to junmai, but has a small amount of distilled alcohol added during the brewing process making it more fragrant and easier to drink.
3. 純米銀所 (junmai Ginjō) - this is a more labor intensive saké and made with traditional tools giving it a lighter taste.
4. 銀所 (ginjo) - This is similar to the above junmai ginjo, except distilled alcohol is added during the brewing process
5. 純米大銀所 (junmai daiginjō) - this is considered the highest quality of saké as it requires a lot of labor and hands-on brewing. It is more aromatic, light and delicate in flavor.
6. 大銀所 (daiginjō) - is like the above junmai daiginjo, only with distilled alcohol added during the brewing process

Other varieties involve differences in the mashes or different handling it after fermentation.

1. 無濾過 (muroka) - this literally means "not fine filtered with charcoal", meaning the brewer skips either the pasteurizing or filtering process or both giving the sake a much bolder flavor.
2. 濁り (nigori) - this is "cloudy" saké. This is somewhat filtered and the a portion of the rice is not fermented giving it a cloudy white color or sometimes chunks of rice. Careful when you open this kind because some are "sparkling" since the remaining rice is still "working".
3. 生酛 (kimoto) - this is one of the oldest ways of preparing the mash for brewing. If you want to know how saké tasted 300 years ago, give it a try.
4. 山廃 (yamahai) - this is a more simplified version of the kimoto but is still not the modern way saké is produced. It basically eliminates the most difficult part of making kimoto style of brewing, but it has a deep and full-bodied in flavor.

There are many more, but that should give you a start. What about serving it? Well, that little flask is called a 徳利 (tokkuri) and it is traditionally served in little wooden boxes called 枡 (masu). But nowadays you mostly see it served in お猪口 (o-choko) the little ceramic cups.

Hot or cold? It depends on the quality of the saké, really. The basic rule of thumb: premium is served chilled and the lower quality is served hot. Traditionally, it was served warm to mask the the woody tasting, harsher old style of brewing. Good quality saké is best served just below room temperature.

乾杯! (Kampai!)

パチンコ! Pachinko!

What is pachinko? It's like an upright pinball machine for gambling and amusement. The word "pachinko" is onomatopoeia for the sound of the balls hitting the pins on the playing board: "パチパチ" (pachi-pachi). It's also Japan's largest industry and an obsession for almost one third of its population. With over 16,000 parlors nationwide, you can't swing a dead tanuki without hitting one. There's also a duality to its legality but I'll talk more about that later. Here's a parlor in Shinjuku:


Here's how it works: You purchase balls (generally for 4 yen apiece) from the parlor using cash, a pre-paid card or a member card directly into your machine of choice. You then shoot your ball bearings from the tray into the machine hoping to win more balls.


So if you ever find yourself in Japan and you're thinking about giving pachinko a whirl, first ask yourself these questions: Do you like...

Games of chance? Pachinko can be described as slot machines on crack. Why pull a lever or hit a button and watch some symbols spin while hoping they'll match? That's entirely too passive. Try manipulating hundreds of tiny ball bearings with a knob while lights flash and music blares all around you to get those 3 matching symbols. This way, you feel that you have more influence over the outcome, unless you count good luck charms and superstitious rituals.


Cigarette smoke? Despite the World Health Organization Framework Convention on Tobacco Control in 2004 and many new public smoking laws in Japan, smoking and pachinko parlors still go together like milk and Oreos.

Confined spaces? These machines are quite small and narrow, and the parlor is looking to make the most bang for their buck. Also, space is at a premium in Japan. Therefore the machines are crammed in making narrow aisles. If you are claustrophobic, most of Japan is not for you.


Crowds? Being on a packed train is one thing, but sitting on an uncomfortable vinyl covered stool shoulder to shoulder with strangers in a loud, smoke filled pachinko parlor is another. At least you have a game to distract you.

Breaking the law? Okay, you won more little balls, now what? Well, you take your trays to an attendant who will run them through a counting machine that spits out a voucher. Sweet! Now what kind of prizes can you get? You have your choice things of t-shirts, pens, cigarette lighters, perfume, cosmetics, candy or coupons to a nearby grocery store. Lame, right? If you'd rather have money then there's a common loophole just around the corner. Grab that voucher, leave the parlor and head over to the nearby exchange center. They will pay out your winnings in CASH. Yeah, it's illegal for the parlor itself to pay out winnings, but a third party not on site can. Here is such an exchange center in Shibuya. It doesn't look shady at all, does it?


Constant loud noise? As you can imagine, hundreds of machines with all their balls clanking on pegs, music and announcements will definitely leave your ears ringing. That's nothing that a pair of earplugs and lots of alcohol can't cure, though.

Are there any pluses? Well, yeah - the obvious amusement from the game itself and the thrill of possibly hitting a jackpot. Also, like casinos here in the US, they serve alcohol and children are not allowed. And often, the machines themselves are anime themed! I've seen machines designed based off of Lupin the Third, Neon Genesis Evangelion and Trigun. If you've never experienced it, you should give it a try at least once. After all, 30 million Japanese can't be wrong.

＼(＾▽＾*)いらっしゃ～いっ(*＾▽＾)／

I have finished listing all the clothing accessories left over from MetroCon!

All the clothes listed are authentic and come from Tokyo's alternative fashion district: Harajuku! I personally go from shop to shop, boutique to boutique and mall to mall to find the cutest shirts and accessories. I buy only shirts with Engrish on them because it's very popular over there and rather hilarious here.

Below are some examples of what I have for sale! The faster you buy, the sooner I can go back to Tokyo and buy more!

Etsy jaderabbitboutique

Etsy shop now open!

The Etsy shop is open! Authentic, cute and engrishy apparel from Harajuku! どうぞよろしくお願いします。

Alright, so eBay was a bust. However, MetroCon was not! Thank you to everyone who stopped by my booth! It was nice meeting you all! It's wonderful to meet so many people with an interest in Japanese culture and travel.

To supplement anime conventions, I now have an Etsy account! Please check it out. I'll be listing more stuff tomorrow and the rest of the week. It's 12:38 am here now, so I'm done for the night...

Zzz…(*´〜｀*)｡O○

花見！Flower viewing!

花 = "hana" or flower and 見 = "mi" or eye. While "hana" refers to flowers in general, this time of the year it more specifically means cherry blossoms (sakura) and/or plum blossoms (ume).

To celebrate the arrival of spring, the Japanese have little outdoor parties or picnics under these trees either during the day or in some special occasions, at night. These night parties are called 夜桜 ("yozakura") and include decorative and festive lanterns hung from the trees.

Hanami is of interest to just about every Japanese citizen, so much so that their weather service provides a 桜前線 ("sakurazensen" or "blossom report") to make best of your party planning. Below is such a report from the previous year.


My first sakura siting was in Nagoya in the castle's gardens. It was very overcast that day and towards the end of my tour, I saw some pink flowers in the distance. I was so excited that I interrupted my guide mid sentence to ask if they were cherry blossoms. She nodded and I ran ahead to see having completely lost interest in a statue she was explaining. I apologized for my rudeness but she found my elation amusing.


With as much anime, manga, TV and movies I've seen... the cherry blossom is omnipresent and I just couldn't help myself. Getting to see firsthand the delicate petals fall and speckle the ground like confetti was almost surreal.

Apparently, I wasn't the only person thrilled about this time of year. It was mid-March so some of the trees in Tokyo were just starting to bloom. While I was in Kamakura, there was one tree abloom near the Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu Shrine and no less than a dozen photographers jostled for position to get pictures of the one branch they could get near.

I mentioned ume or plum blossoms above and I was fortunate to see one of those as well at Nagoya castle. They look just like sakura only white.

This entry is definitely photo heavy, but these beautiful flowers speak for themselves. I took more pictures of cherry trees than anything else on this trip and seeing the natives crowd around a blossoming tree on more than one occasion meant my fixation was the norm.

The boutique is open!

Finally! I've managed to catalog and photograph all my merchandise from Japan and have begun listing in on eBay for your buying pleasure! CHECK IT OUT!

There's not much now, but I will continue to list more clothing and stationery as the week goes on. Thanks for your patience and I hope you enjoy what you find!

プロ野球! Professional Baseball!

It's that time of year again - baseball season is upon us and the Japanese.

Wait. Japan? Baseball?! I'm confused! I thought they only watched like sumo wrestling and kabuki plays and stuff?

Nope! The Japanese are very passionate about baseball and have their own 12-team league to follow called Nippon Professional Baseball, or the NPB which is equivalent to our MLB. In fact, North American has stolen quite a few players from them for our teams, such as Ichiro Suzuki of the Seattle Mariners, Daisuke Matsuzaka of the Boston Red Sox, Kosuke Fukudome of the Chicago Cubs and my favorite player, Akinori Iwamura of the Pittsburgh Pirates just to name a few.

There are a few differences between when it comes to rules and regulations when comparing the MLB to the NPB but those aren't very interesting. The major differences are in going to the games themselves. I had the pleasure of attending 5 games in Japan last year and it completely ruined domestic games for me.

The biggest difference? That's easy - the fans. Extremely organized and loud (and sometimes paid), Japanese baseball fans raise the bar of fandom. It's not enough to haphazardly slap some sentiment on a piece of posterboard or paint your face. No, no, no. To be a true fan in Japan involves learning a different song for each batter, your team's fight song and being armed with flags, thunder sticks, banners, drums, horns, megaphones, etc while wearing your team's colors from head to toe...





...literally. I mentioned the word "paid" above. Yes, they have professional fans! Called 応援団 ("ouendan" or cheer squads), they have auditions and practices. They lead the other fans in songs, cheers and chants when while their team is at bat - which is quite the opposite here. Both teams are always equally represented by ouendan at ALL games, so there's never a lull in the noise, excitement or enthusiasm.


The next difference is the food. The question I was asked the most is: "Can you get sushi at baseball game?" The answer: "You bet... along with riceballs, tempura, edamame, teriyaki, noodles along with our classics of hotdogs, popcorn and of course, BEER."

Yes, these girls bring beer to you! Don't like Asahi? (What's wrong with you?!) Don't worry, a girl carrying Sapporo, Suntory, Kirin or Yebisu on her back will hike the stairs by your section soon enough.

With all this going on, it's easy to forget that there's a baseball being played! This is why I usually have moments of "ho-hum" at a major league game here.

There's a wonderfully fun tour run by JapanBall every year for the sole purpose of experiencing these games. I went last year and had a blast. I urge you to check it out even if you're not a baseball fan.

If flying halfway around the world to watch some baseball is something you can't swing, then you can watch it from the comfort of your living room, albeit at 4 am. Your cable or satellite provider might have a premium channel called "TV Japan" - which is basically NHK's feed minus the commercials. They usually show 3 or 4 games a week plus you get all of their sitcoms, dramas, children's programming and news.

Day 8: Sumida Park

Sumida park is, as you can imagine, located on the bank of the Sumida river just a few minute's walk from the sensouji in Asakusa. Originally a private garden for the shogun, it was opened as a public park in 1931. It's also one of the prime spots for 花見 (hanami or "flower viewing") in late March and early April as the park contains nearly 1,000 sakura planted along the bank forming a tunnel of blossoms.

I caught the park in early March, so only a few of the trees were in bloom, but they still drew their share of enthusiastic photographers, viewers, joggers and bicyclists.

Other sights along the Sumida park include the Asahi headquarters across the river. You might be familiar with their "super dry" beer, but like most beverage companies in Japan, they actually produce a wide variety of soft drinks, as well.

Officially known as the "Asahi Beer Hall". The building on the left was styled to represent a glass of beer with its foamy head at the top. And the Asahi flame is supposed to represent the 'burning heart of Asahi beer' but the locals refer to it as "the golden turd".

Day 7: Asakusa & Akihabara

Ah, Asakusa's sensō-ji - Tōkyō's oldest Buddhist temple, complete with an impressive five-story pagoda. Being the last stop on the Metro's Ginza line, it's hard to miss. This was the first site I visited when I came to Japan, so it holds a special place in my heart.

On my previous visit to the sensō-ji, the actual temple was completely covered up and under renovation. So, 6 months later, I was excited to return to see it in all its glory... too bad it was still under construction!

Oh, well. Even if you find yourself in Japan tomorrow, the sensō-ji is still well worth a visit. The "thunder gate" with its ceremonious giant lanterns are quite a site along with the all the little shops that line Nakamise-dori. During the oppressively hot summers, Nakamise-dori is mercifully covered providing much-needed shade. However, in the early spring, it's open-air and adorned with cherry blossom decorations.

Like most temples and shrines, you'll find a おみくじ ("omikuji"), which literally means "sacred lottery". For a donation of a mere 100 yen you can participate in the fun with all the high school kids whom you'll see giggling and laughing at the results of their fortunes. Here's how it works:

Pop your 100 yen into the coin slot and grab that metallic cylinder. Tilt and shake it until a numbered stick falls out of the the hole and match up that number to the corresponding drawer and therein lies your fortune.

The numbers will more than likely be in Japanese, so it helps you find your fortune quicker if you can read them, but if you're not familiar with the kanji, you'll just have to spend an extra minute or two matching up the symbols.

Your fortune will be headed with a prediction of your overall luck in general as follows:

• Great blessing (dai-kichi, 大吉)
• Middle blessing (chū-kichi, 中吉)
• Small blessing (shō-kichi, 小吉)
• Blessing (kichi, 吉)
• Half-blessing (han-kichi, 半吉)
• Near-blessing (sue-kichi, 末吉)
• Near-small-blessing (sue-shō-kichi, 末小吉)
• Curse (kyō, 凶)
• Small curse (shō-kyō, 小凶)
• Half-curse (han-kyō, 半凶)
• Near-curse (sue-kyō, 末凶)
• Great curse (dai-kyō, 大凶)

Then you'll get a more specific prognostication. Usually something along the lines of:

• 願事 (negaigoto) – one's wish or desire
• 待人 (machibito) – a person being waited for
• 失せ物 (usemono) – lost article(s)
• 旅立ち (tabitachi) – travel
• 商い (akinai) – business dealings
• 學問 (gakumon) – studies or learning
• 相場 (souba) – market speculation
• 爭事 (arasoigoto) – disputes
• 戀愛 (renai) – romantic relationships
• 転居 (tenkyo) – moving or changing residence
• 出產 (shussan) – childbirth or pregnancy
• 病気 (byōki) – illness
• 縁談 (endan) – marriage proposal or engagement

If your fortune is good, keep it with you. Otherwise, fold it up lengthwise and tie it to the wrack with metal wires nearby so you can leave your misfortune there.

Here's what got!


There's an English translation on the back, but mine says: "The Best Fortune #99 The sun is shining so brightly that you will get the blessing of the heaven. The moon is shining clearly again after a cloud passes. You may have rare treasure. Gaining fame, you meet all your wishes. Your wish will be realized. The sick person will get well. The lost article will be found. The person you are waiting for will come. It is a good to make a trip. Marriage and employment are both good."

Needless to say, I tucked this into my purse!

After taking a rest in the afternoon at my hotel and watching a grand sumo tournament, it was getting dark and therefore time to head out to Akihabara - the electric town! It's fun during the day, but comes alive at night.

If you're not into anime, or don't plan patronizing one of the many maid cafes there, it's still worth a visit and here's why: ドンキ ("donki") also known as Don Quijote, the greatest store ever. While there are many locations throughout Japan, Akihabara's is the most epic. The first floor is a pachinko parlor and the next 5 or so floors is packed to the rafters with, well... EVERYTHING. There is no order to this store. Nail polish is next to light bulbs which are next to clocks which are next to hair dyes which are next to vacuums which are next too... well, you get the idea. Unless you're a frequent shopper, you'll just have to brave each aisle not knowing what you'll find next!


I'd like to go on record saying that this is the best store I've ever been in. If you're claustrophobic, stay away, but if it's 3:30 in the morning and you need a Michael Jackson costume, Don Quijote is your best friend.

Day 6: Harajuku & Ochanomizu

Harajuku: Part 2. Again, my arms were laden with shopping bags, but I managed to snap a few pictures. For being a Monday, Takeshita-dori was packed!

I got there a little before noon and right at the entrance of Takeshita-dori there's a 24-hour McDonalds. I've been seeing posters all over Tokyo for something called the "California Burger" at "マック" (Makku), what they call McDonalds for short. I've tried KFC and T.G.i.Fridays in Japan, but not McDonalds.

What we call "value meals", they call "sets" or "セット" (setto). I got to admit that I was pretty disappointed by the burger. It had a beef patty, lettuce, tomato, white cheese, a tangy BBQ sauce on a wholewheat bun. For all that, it was pretty bland. Apparently, there's also a Texas burger and according to a poster inside the restaurant, it's "coming back soon!!". The fries were on par with what we have here, though.

Though the food wasn't that great, the people watching made up for it. I've never seen so many giggling and chatty teenage Japanese girls in one spot. And here and there in this crowded dining space were middle aged business men in their pinstriped suits totally not blending in.

For all of Harajuku's uniqueness, there's also some familiar stores to be found like Claire's. I couldn't believe it. There it was, jammed in with all the other shops. That and the GAP I could do without, but I suppose to the locals these are charming snippets of American fashion.


I checked out LaForet and it turned out to be pretty pricey and upscale for being in Harajuku. I didn't spend a lot of time inside as the price tags were not very welcoming.

Having bought all I could carry, I went back to rest my sore feet at the hotel for a few. It was getting late, so I decided to head over to the origami kaikan in Ochanomizu before it closed.



The Ochanomizu JR Station is right on the Kanda river. The origami kaikan is a short walk from the station by cutting through the Tokyo Medical and Dental University's campus.



I simply adore this place. The staff here are so friendly and if you have ever done origami, they are so pleased to hear that. Every month, they feature a project and have it on display in the 1st floor gallery and the projects from the previous month are on the 2nd floor gallery. This month was samurai helmets.

I told the lady that I enjoy origami as a hobby and told her I like to make kusudama. She smiled from ear to ear and told me to check out the 2nd floor. So I headed up to find that kusudama were the previous month's feature!


The exhibits, staff and merchandise here never disappoint me. The 3rd floor has a very impressive shop. They must have miles of paper. There's 2 rooms full of handmade washi, kits they they've made up for different projects, glue, display boards, etc.


As I was browsing, a dozen or so older ladies came down from the 5th floor classroom after just taking some lessons. They were so lively and fun to watch - kind of like the loquacious girls in Makku earlier.

The 4th floor is a workshop where you are free to check out and watch the artisans make paper.

This gentlemen was taking the black hanging pieces of washi made earlier and brushing a design on them and then hanging them to dry on the other side of the workshop. So, even if origami really isn't your thing, you can go check out this interesting process for free!

Next post: my last full day in Japan!

Day 5: Kamakura

Kamakura is the perfect day trip for Tokyoites and tourists alike. It has many shrines and a 大仏 (daibutsu or giant Buddha) statue - the second largest made of bronze in Japan, in fact.

Once you arrive in Kamakura, you make a short walk to Hachimangu shrine either via Komachi-dori shopping street, or along the Dankazura. I recommend Komachi-dori because it's packed with little shops, of which many sell delicious street foods perfect for being on the go. It's easy to spot which is most popular. Just look for the shops with dozens of high school kids lined up in front. You can always walk the Dankazura on the way back.

If Komachi-dori wasn't enough, the Dankazura has it's own shops and food vendors selling everything from cotton candy to masks for children.


During my visit to Hachimangu, I was fortunate enough to witness a traditional/formal Shinto wedding. Here is the happy couple descending the stairs after the ceremony with a miko (priestess).


The shrine itself is atop a hill that's easy to get to via winding stairs where you're rewarded with a wonderful view of the Dankazura and torii. It was a little hazy that day, so my picture didn't turn out so well.

After the shrine, it's a short train ride (2 stops) via the Enoden line to Hase. The Enoden line uses rickety street car like trains with wooden floors. I feel sorry for the locals just trying to get home having to deal with the packed cars.

Once you arrive to Hase, it's a short walk to Hasedra (Buddhist temple) and to the Daibutsu. I didn't have much time, so I skipped Hasedra and headed straight for the Daibutsu which is well worth the 200 yen to get in.

There's pretty much nothing else to see here. The site is pretty small for housing something so gigantic. Basically, you pay your admission, walk through the gate and BAM: a huge Buddha. I wasn't prepared for how massive it actually is. I stopped in my tracks and let out an audible "whoa!".

The sun was setting at this point, so I decided to go check out Shichirigahama beach, which is a couple more stops down from Hase. The station itself is so quaint with its one small platform and a person taking your ticket instead of a machine. The beach is all of 2 blocks away from the station. This is where all the surfers hang out and motorcyclists like to cruise up and down the coastal highway.

The sidewalk is very narrow and is well used by joggers and cyclists, so it's best to find a beach access stairway and head there.

After wandering WAY too far from Shichirigahama, I wound up in Fujisawa and took the Tokaido line back to Tokyo station. JR is your friend. :) It's like the old saying "all roads lead to Rome".

Day 4: Nagoya

Nagoya is of course famous for it's beautiful castle, but I was there more for two other reasons: 1.) the Usagi to Cafe and 2.) 8ball Tattoo Studio.

By shinkansen (bullet train), Nagoya is only 2 hours west of Tokyo, though it's going to cost you about 18,000円　(around $200) for a round trip. Liken the shinkansen to airlines, only more convenient. Futuristic and efficient, they are my favorite part of visiting Japan. If you plan on seeing more than Tokyo and one other city, I recommended getting the JR Rail Pass. It might seem a little pricey up front, but once you start doing the math on how much it costs for each trip plus all the inner city trains you'll be using operated by JR, you quickly realize just how much of a bargain it is. On my last visit, I got my money's worth in 2 days.

My main reason for my visit to Nagoya was to see my friend, Horitake-san, who has a tattoo studio there called 8ball Tattoo Studio only a few minutes by taxi from Nagoya station. But he works tattoo artist's schedule so I decided to get lunch first.

After getting links to a video from several of my friends about Usagi to Cafe, I just had to go. I love rabbits and have two. But most people in Japan cannot have pets because their landlords are jerks, so it's not uncommon to see cat cafes where patrons can have coffee and relieve stress by watching, petting or playing with the cats at the cafe. This one is along the same lines, but with rabbits.

The girls there don't speak English, but don't let that scare you away. You can use google translate to figure out their pricing before you go. Watching the other patrons is rather amusing. They act as though they've never seen a real life rabbit up close and marvel at every little cute thing they do. There was a couple on a date, a mother with her daughter and there was even a middle aged man there just taking pictures of them hopping around with a very expensive camera. Obviously, they all had different reasons for visiting, just as I did.

One of the girls who works there, Yamada-san, was very nice and wanted to know all about my rabbits; their names, ages, what they look like, their sex, etc. They had one that was the same kind as one of the rabbits I own and looked alike, only white with brown spots instead of black. His name is パンプ (Pump) and the website says he has the nicest coat, which I expected having a satin rabbit myself.

After running up quite a large tab at the cafe, I headed off to the castle which was only a few minutes by taxi. It was overcast and rainy that day, but that kept the crowd to a minimum for being a Saturday. To my surprise, they have complimentary English speaking guides. Because of the weather, I was one of the few foreigners there and got a tour guide all to myself. So, I was lucky enough to get my personal tour of the castle and its grounds. I've been to Iwakuni castle (near Hiroshima), but Nagoya castle much, much larger and includes an impressive dry moat, guard towers, and a garden.

From the castle, it was off to visit my friend being late in the afternoon on a Saturday. I met Horitake-san while he was in Tampa for a tattoo convention. I'm not an enthusiast, but I was in the market for finding an artist to do what I wanted and this convention an array of shops in the Tampa Bay area. I had no idea 8ball Studio was there and was amazed by their portfolio. After chatting with Horitake-san (in Japanese) and telling him what I wanted, he squeezed me into their fully booked schedule and not only drew up the design but did a wonderful job on the tattoo as well - all the while turning away everyone wanting to get work done that weekend.

I was so overwhelmed by this gesture, that I made him a thank gift it mailed it to his shop a few weeks later and then I got a reply email saying that he got it and loved it. So we started emailing back and forth. When I was in Japan in September, I couldn't make it to Nagoya, so he and his wife came to meet me in Kyoto and took me out to dinner and then around the sights the next day. After their generosity, I made up some more gifts and made a special trip out to see them this time.

I dropped in to the studio to his surprise. Again, I got a tattoo and had a pleasant but short visit which makes for a very special souvenir. By this time, it was late and I didn't want to miss the last shinkansen.

The moral of the story is when you come to Japan, or if you've been before, I think you'll find that the people here are very friendly and are willing to exchange email addresses if you chat them up a little and will even give you a little token of gratitude if you've made an impression on them. Sometimes these will blossom into friendships.

Day 3: Harajuku

What can I say about Harajuku? It exceeded expectations - so much more in fact that I plan on returning tomorrow since I didn't get to hit all the shops I wanted to. (But in all fairness, I did spend that entire morning in the Tokyu Hands massive Shibuya store. And I had to leave early in the afternoon to meet up with some friends in Shinagawa.)

Since my hands were full of merchandise, I couldn't snap many pictures, but I will post what I have. I'll be taking another shot at it tomorrow, though.

As you can see, Takeshita-dori is packed even on a weekday. I can't even what it's like on the weekends.

I lost all sense of time just hopping from shop to shop. It's seemingly endless and the variety is unparalleled! There were a couple lolita sightings but none of the craziness that normally goes on Sundays. I did see a GAP there, which is hilarious. When I think of the GAP, I think "cookie cutter clothing", so it was the last store I expected to see where normally this goes on.

The plan for tomorrow's attack is LaForet (which is like Harajuku's version of 109) and the rest of Takeshita-dori.