お酒! Saké!

Many of you have heard of the traditional rice-based alcohol called saké, or "o-saké" to be polite, but are not very familiar with it. Like me, you might treat yourself when you're out for sushi and you randomly choose from the menu which one you'd like. It's all the same, right? It's clear, it's strong and served piping hot in a little bottle. Most don't go beyond more than price and what the bottle design when ordering or buying saké from a liquor store.

Well, there's actually a lot more to saké. Like beer or wines, there are many classifications varying in quality, finish and taste. I am by no means an expert, but here's some clarification on varieties and basic terms to help you find a saké that's right for you.

What's the difference between 普通酒 (futsū-shu) ordinary table sake and premium saké? Do I serve it hot or cold?

First, know that the one of the biggest factors that determine the grade and way a particular saké tastes is the amount of rice that is milled or "polished" off during the brewing process. This is referred to as 精米歩合 (seimaibuai). The lower the number, the smaller the grain and the more refined the taste. The rice used in making ordinary table saké has a seimaibuai of less than 70%, meaning less than 30% of the original grain has been polished away.

特定名称主 (tokutei meishoushu) “special designation saké” or "premium" saké must have a seimaibuai of 70% or greater. There are six main classifications of premium saké and they are as follows:

1. 純米 (junmai) - this literally means "pure rice". Generally, there is no extra alcohol added during the brewing process and retains its firm rice flavor.
2. 本所ぞ (Honjōzō) - this is similar to junmai, but has a small amount of distilled alcohol added during the brewing process making it more fragrant and easier to drink.
3. 純米銀所 (junmai Ginjō) - this is a more labor intensive saké and made with traditional tools giving it a lighter taste.
4. 銀所 (ginjo) - This is similar to the above junmai ginjo, except distilled alcohol is added during the brewing process
5. 純米大銀所 (junmai daiginjō) - this is considered the highest quality of saké as it requires a lot of labor and hands-on brewing. It is more aromatic, light and delicate in flavor.
6. 大銀所 (daiginjō) - is like the above junmai daiginjo, only with distilled alcohol added during the brewing process

Other varieties involve differences in the mashes or different handling it after fermentation.

1. 無濾過 (muroka) - this literally means "not fine filtered with charcoal", meaning the brewer skips either the pasteurizing or filtering process or both giving the sake a much bolder flavor.
2. 濁り (nigori) - this is "cloudy" saké. This is somewhat filtered and the a portion of the rice is not fermented giving it a cloudy white color or sometimes chunks of rice. Careful when you open this kind because some are "sparkling" since the remaining rice is still "working".
3. 生酛 (kimoto) - this is one of the oldest ways of preparing the mash for brewing. If you want to know how saké tasted 300 years ago, give it a try.
4. 山廃 (yamahai) - this is a more simplified version of the kimoto but is still not the modern way saké is produced. It basically eliminates the most difficult part of making kimoto style of brewing, but it has a deep and full-bodied in flavor.

There are many more, but that should give you a start. What about serving it? Well, that little flask is called a 徳利 (tokkuri) and it is traditionally served in little wooden boxes called 枡 (masu). But nowadays you mostly see it served in お猪口 (o-choko) the little ceramic cups.

Hot or cold? It depends on the quality of the saké, really. The basic rule of thumb: premium is served chilled and the lower quality is served hot. Traditionally, it was served warm to mask the the woody tasting, harsher old style of brewing. Good quality saké is best served just below room temperature.

乾杯! (Kampai!)