Day 7: Asakusa & Akihabara

Ah, Asakusa's sensō-ji - Tōkyō's oldest Buddhist temple, complete with an impressive five-story pagoda. Being the last stop on the Metro's Ginza line, it's hard to miss. This was the first site I visited when I came to Japan, so it holds a special place in my heart.

On my previous visit to the sensō-ji, the actual temple was completely covered up and under renovation. So, 6 months later, I was excited to return to see it in all its glory... too bad it was still under construction!

Oh, well. Even if you find yourself in Japan tomorrow, the sensō-ji is still well worth a visit. The "thunder gate" with its ceremonious giant lanterns are quite a site along with the all the little shops that line Nakamise-dori. During the oppressively hot summers, Nakamise-dori is mercifully covered providing much-needed shade. However, in the early spring, it's open-air and adorned with cherry blossom decorations.

Like most temples and shrines, you'll find a おみくじ ("omikuji"), which literally means "sacred lottery". For a donation of a mere 100 yen you can participate in the fun with all the high school kids whom you'll see giggling and laughing at the results of their fortunes. Here's how it works:

Pop your 100 yen into the coin slot and grab that metallic cylinder. Tilt and shake it until a numbered stick falls out of the the hole and match up that number to the corresponding drawer and therein lies your fortune.

The numbers will more than likely be in Japanese, so it helps you find your fortune quicker if you can read them, but if you're not familiar with the kanji, you'll just have to spend an extra minute or two matching up the symbols.

Your fortune will be headed with a prediction of your overall luck in general as follows:

• Great blessing (dai-kichi, 大吉)
• Middle blessing (chū-kichi, 中吉)
• Small blessing (shō-kichi, 小吉)
• Blessing (kichi, 吉)
• Half-blessing (han-kichi, 半吉)
• Near-blessing (sue-kichi, 末吉)
• Near-small-blessing (sue-shō-kichi, 末小吉)
• Curse (kyō, 凶)
• Small curse (shō-kyō, 小凶)
• Half-curse (han-kyō, 半凶)
• Near-curse (sue-kyō, 末凶)
• Great curse (dai-kyō, 大凶)

Then you'll get a more specific prognostication. Usually something along the lines of:

• 願事 (negaigoto) – one's wish or desire
• 待人 (machibito) – a person being waited for
• 失せ物 (usemono) – lost article(s)
• 旅立ち (tabitachi) – travel
• 商い (akinai) – business dealings
• 學問 (gakumon) – studies or learning
• 相場 (souba) – market speculation
• 爭事 (arasoigoto) – disputes
• 戀愛 (renai) – romantic relationships
• 転居 (tenkyo) – moving or changing residence
• 出產 (shussan) – childbirth or pregnancy
• 病気 (byōki) – illness
• 縁談 (endan) – marriage proposal or engagement

If your fortune is good, keep it with you. Otherwise, fold it up lengthwise and tie it to the wrack with metal wires nearby so you can leave your misfortune there.

Here's what got!


There's an English translation on the back, but mine says: "The Best Fortune #99 The sun is shining so brightly that you will get the blessing of the heaven. The moon is shining clearly again after a cloud passes. You may have rare treasure. Gaining fame, you meet all your wishes. Your wish will be realized. The sick person will get well. The lost article will be found. The person you are waiting for will come. It is a good to make a trip. Marriage and employment are both good."

Needless to say, I tucked this into my purse!

After taking a rest in the afternoon at my hotel and watching a grand sumo tournament, it was getting dark and therefore time to head out to Akihabara - the electric town! It's fun during the day, but comes alive at night.

If you're not into anime, or don't plan patronizing one of the many maid cafes there, it's still worth a visit and here's why: ドンキ ("donki") also known as Don Quijote, the greatest store ever. While there are many locations throughout Japan, Akihabara's is the most epic. The first floor is a pachinko parlor and the next 5 or so floors is packed to the rafters with, well... EVERYTHING. There is no order to this store. Nail polish is next to light bulbs which are next to clocks which are next to hair dyes which are next to vacuums which are next too... well, you get the idea. Unless you're a frequent shopper, you'll just have to brave each aisle not knowing what you'll find next!


I'd like to go on record saying that this is the best store I've ever been in. If you're claustrophobic, stay away, but if it's 3:30 in the morning and you need a Michael Jackson costume, Don Quijote is your best friend.

Day 5: Kamakura

Kamakura is the perfect day trip for Tokyoites and tourists alike. It has many shrines and a 大仏 (daibutsu or giant Buddha) statue - the second largest made of bronze in Japan, in fact.

Once you arrive in Kamakura, you make a short walk to Hachimangu shrine either via Komachi-dori shopping street, or along the Dankazura. I recommend Komachi-dori because it's packed with little shops, of which many sell delicious street foods perfect for being on the go. It's easy to spot which is most popular. Just look for the shops with dozens of high school kids lined up in front. You can always walk the Dankazura on the way back.

If Komachi-dori wasn't enough, the Dankazura has it's own shops and food vendors selling everything from cotton candy to masks for children.


During my visit to Hachimangu, I was fortunate enough to witness a traditional/formal Shinto wedding. Here is the happy couple descending the stairs after the ceremony with a miko (priestess).


The shrine itself is atop a hill that's easy to get to via winding stairs where you're rewarded with a wonderful view of the Dankazura and torii. It was a little hazy that day, so my picture didn't turn out so well.

After the shrine, it's a short train ride (2 stops) via the Enoden line to Hase. The Enoden line uses rickety street car like trains with wooden floors. I feel sorry for the locals just trying to get home having to deal with the packed cars.

Once you arrive to Hase, it's a short walk to Hasedra (Buddhist temple) and to the Daibutsu. I didn't have much time, so I skipped Hasedra and headed straight for the Daibutsu which is well worth the 200 yen to get in.

There's pretty much nothing else to see here. The site is pretty small for housing something so gigantic. Basically, you pay your admission, walk through the gate and BAM: a huge Buddha. I wasn't prepared for how massive it actually is. I stopped in my tracks and let out an audible "whoa!".

The sun was setting at this point, so I decided to go check out Shichirigahama beach, which is a couple more stops down from Hase. The station itself is so quaint with its one small platform and a person taking your ticket instead of a machine. The beach is all of 2 blocks away from the station. This is where all the surfers hang out and motorcyclists like to cruise up and down the coastal highway.

The sidewalk is very narrow and is well used by joggers and cyclists, so it's best to find a beach access stairway and head there.

After wandering WAY too far from Shichirigahama, I wound up in Fujisawa and took the Tokaido line back to Tokyo station. JR is your friend. :) It's like the old saying "all roads lead to Rome".